![]() I should have mentioned that I have mountaineering applications in mind, where the approach alone is often difficult enough to encourage gram-counting (imagine carrying the gear to stay 4 nights atop a 6kft gain approach). I'm not trying to critique your approach, though, if it works it works. I suppose that even in that case, though, the grigri could be replaced by a GigaJul, giving a net weight saving, and would still allow both of you to rap in the usual way if one ATC was dropped. But if a leader feels more confident with me using a grigri I would have no qualms about it. ![]() Also when I belay him as a leader, I use an ATC, purely because I don’t enjoy using a grigri much. I guess bringing 3 belay devices seems excessive, but we always have a back up if we drop one. But it’s a system we both enjoy, and have had zero issues. But as you stated, we both carry ATC’s to rap down. My follower typically belays me on lead with a grigri, and I belay him from the anchor using an ATC guide. Lighter than a grigri, but about as much as 2 ATCs. The weight is the only thing I don't like. (There is also the mega jul, but that has enough problems to make it seem irrelevant to the discussion) Why don't more people use it? Because it's weird and somewhat complex? Should I not use one? It's and ATC when you need it, and it has brake assist for belaying the leader. But that way, you have an locking device to belay the leader, and a light, versatile device for other applications where it is more safe. Or maybe they both have an ATC so both can rap, I'm not sure. This makes sense, I suppose, because it so light, so simple, and so versatile.Ī compromise between these options that I've read is for a pair of climbers to bring one ATC Guide and one grigri or similar. We always go on about redundancy, yet the ATC retains is popularity. In fact, I've always been shocked that gyms allow brand new climbers to go belaying their friends unsupervised with an ATC. ![]() For ascending/lowering/rapping, or even belaying from above, it is safe in guide mode, and/or can always be backed up. It is not versatile enough.Īn ATC Guide is about the lightest option, which is great. But it is too heavy for a multipitch trad setting, and can't belay/rap twin/half ropes even if it were lighter. The Grigri is bombproof, and I use it in the gym and at the sport crag. ![]()
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